Simplicity pattern dating
Once the shape of the sloper has been refined by making a series of mock-up garments called toiles (UK) or muslins (US), the final sloper can be used in turn to create patterns for many styles of garments with varying necklines, sleeves, dart placements, and so on.
The flat pattern drafting method is the most commonly used method in menswear; menswear rarely involves draping.
They may decide to tailor or adjust a pattern to improve the fit or style for the garment wearer, using french curves, hip curves, and cutting or folding on straight edges.
There are alternate methods, either directly on flat pattern pieces from measurements, using a pre-draped personalized sloper or using draping methods on a dress form with inexpensive fabrics like muslin.
This provides the sewer with measurements to use as a guideline for marking the pattern pieces and cutting the fabric for the finished garment.
Pattern grading is the process of shrinking or enlarging a finished pattern to accommodate it to people of different sizes.
The draping method involves creating a muslin mock-up pattern by pinning fabric directly on a form, then transferring the muslin outline and markings onto a paper pattern or using the muslin as the pattern itself.
After a paper/fabric pattern is completed, very often pattern-makers digitize their patterns for archiving and vendor communication purposes.
The final sloper pattern is usually made of cardboard or paperboard, without seam allowances or style details (thicker paper or cardboard allows repeated tracing and pattern development from the original sloper).
The previous standard for digitizing was the digitizing tablet.
Nowadays, automatic option such as scanner and cameras systems are available.
A pattern maker would also use various tools such as a notcher, drill and awl to mark the pattern.
Usually, flat patterning begins with the creation of a sloper or block pattern, a simple, fitted garment made to the wearer's measurements.